San Juan de Ortega is part of a large region developed in the northeast of the province of Burgos, situated between the Montes de Oca and near the Sierra de Atapuerca. This gives it an abundance of natural wealth and impressive landscapes. Together with Hiniesta and Barrios de Colina, it forms the municipality of Barrios de Colina.

Stay with Mundiplus, one of the best organisers of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. We will explain what you can find here and its connection to the Camino de Santiago.

 

A bit of local history

In the late 9th century, small settlements began to form, which gradually consolidated into villages around the 10th century. It owes its name to the saint who worked closely with Santo Domingo de la Calzada to open new routes for pilgrims to Santiago that passed through the region.

Currently, this village has around 20 inhabitants who, although few, are extremely friendly and helpful to pilgrims. During the spring and well into the summer, its population increases exponentially, thanks to the influx of walkers.

Note that you won’t find it on your journey from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela. Remember that it is several stages before you reach the minimum distance you must travel to be granted the Compostela.

 

What to see in San Juan de Ortega

There may not be many inhabitants at present, but this small village on the French Route of the Camino de Santiago has various places you should visit:

 

Monastery of San Juan de Ortega

This is the most important monument in the entire village and its surroundings, a clear example of Romanesque architecture and art.

Like the various monasteries you will find in the stages of the Northern Route of the Camino de Santiago, its construction dates back to the late 13th century. However, it was not completed until well into the 14th century. By then, some Gothic elements were added, which was the predominant style in Europe at this time.

Among the many elements that we can highlight from the building’s construction and architecture, clearly the Capital of the Annunciation is the most important. Of course, Romanesque in style, it has representations of various scenes from the birth of Jesus.

  • The first scene shows the archangel Gabriel kneeling before the Virgin Mary at the moment of the Annunciation.
  • Next, it depicts the visit of the Virgin Mary to her cousin Saint Elizabeth, as well as Joseph’s dream where the angel tells him that Mary’s son will be the bearer of God’s message.
  • It ends with the birth of Jesus, in the presence of the Virgin Mary in the manger held by an angel, along with the midwives, and finally, the announcement of the Saviour to the waiting shepherds.

Within this monastery, you can also see other impressive and well-preserved details. The tomb of San Juan de Ortega is decorated with various scenes and figures in relief. It is considered a sculptural jewel from the late Romanesque period, so we recommend you take the time to appreciate it in detail.

 

The famous miracle of the light

You should know that it only occurs during the spring and autumn equinox. It is a phenomenon where a ray of the setting sun strikes and then illuminates the representation of the Virgin of the Annunciation in the Monastery of San Juan de Ortega.

This event attracts hundreds of pilgrims as it is a perfect combination of religiosity, art, and also astronomy.

 

Gastronomy

In the village of San Juan de Ortega, you can enjoy typical Castilian-Leonese cuisine, different from what you might find in the various stages of the Portuguese Route. Its most popular dishes are garlic soup and stews made with beans, black pudding, and chorizo.

By the way, if you are doing the Portuguese Route, we recommend starting the Camino from Tui.

 

Local festivals

The patron saint festivals in San Juan de Ortega are held every 6th of December in honour of Saint Nicholas of Bari.

Additionally, on the first Saturday of June, the festivities of San Juan de Ortega are celebrated, with his feast day on the 2nd of June. On this day, a pilgrimage in his honour is held, where all the villages in the region participate with their representative banners. It is a day of fair and market, with a wide variety of stalls to enjoy.

 

The legend of San Juan de Ortega

As his fame grew, he was associated with being a miracle worker, especially in promoting fertility and protecting pregnancies that were in danger. According to legend, various noblewomen and even queens came to this place to seek his favour. In fact, Queen Isabella I of Castile came to the sanctuary to pray for her pregnancy to go well.

Before leaving, she asked for the tomb of the saint to be opened so she could see it, and at her insistence, the monks agreed. It is said that when the lid was opened, a swarm of white bees came out and flew over the heads of those present until it was closed again and they went back inside through a tiny hole.

Since then, it is believed that the bees of San Juan, are the souls of the unborn. After her visit, Isabella I of Castile gave birth to a boy and named him John.