You arrive in Oviedo and walk through its streets until you reach a square. Here, you encounter a majestic structure. This is not just any temple, but the imposing Cathedral of San Salvador, a place with over a thousand years of history and the starting point of the Primitivo Way.

This route, chosen by King Alfonso II in the 9th century, preserves the essence of the first pilgrims. But why is this place so special? Let’s take a look at all the details below.

 

Connection with other routes to Santiago

The Primitivo Way stands as the mother route of the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Not only is it the oldest, but it is also known for the physical and spiritual demands it imposes on those who walk it.

This route, which starts at the Cathedral of San Salvador, requires meticulous preparation both physically and logistically. Its stages are characterised by steep climbs, technical descents, and a trail that delves into rugged landscapes full of history.

On this route, every kilometre becomes a journey through archaeological remains, monasteries, and small population centres that have witnessed the passage of ancient pilgrims. This route links the spirituality of the pilgrimage with nature in its purest form, transforming physical effort into an act of introspection and deep connection.

In contrast, routes like the Sanabrés Way from Ourense offer a different experience, benefiting from the influence of Galician tradition. This route combines river landscapes and architecture that, while less demanding topographically, stands out for its rural charm and connections to the region’s ancestral tradition.

  • The comparison is inevitable: while the Sanabrés seduces with its accessibility and diversity of scenery, the Primitivo focuses on the authenticity of a journey almost untouched by time.

 

It is also interesting to compare the Primitivo Way with the route of the Camino de Santiago from Irun to Bilbao, where the Basque influence is felt in every stretch.

  • This variant incorporates urban elements and coastal landscapes that distance it from the austere and ancient spirit of the Primitivo. In this case, the mountainous terrain and the limited modern intervention enhance a sense of discovery and personal overcoming.

 

If you prefer, you can take the Camino de Santiago Primitivo from Lugo. This stretch is perhaps a little less demanding than the route that starts in Oviedo. Still, it offers pilgrims the chance to explore a diverse cultural framework without sacrificing the physical challenge that characterises the original way.

Yes, seeking the advice of a specialised Camino de Santiago agency is essential to tackle such a demanding itinerary as the Primitivo. At Mundiplus, we not only provide detailed information about accommodation and critical stages, but also offer resources to prepare the body and mind for the adversities of the journey.

 

A temple with Gothic and pre-Romanesque influences

The Cathedral of San Salvador, known as Sancta Ovetensis, is a temple with an interesting history that combines Gothic, pre-Romanesque, Romanesque, Renaissance, and Baroque influences.

Its origins date back to the 8th century, when King Fruela I ordered the construction of a basilica on the same site. However, the current structure, mostly Gothic, began to be built in the late 13th century and was completed in the 16th century.

The tower, a prominent element of Renaissance architecture, is visible from various points of the city and has become a symbol of Oviedo.

 

The Holy Chamber, a treasure of religious art

The Holy Chamber is one of the most outstanding areas of the Cathedral of San Salvador, declared UNESCO World Heritage. It houses two of the most emblematic crosses of Asturias: the Cross of the Victory and the Cross of the Angels.

These symbols represent the history of the Asturian kingdom and have been an important reference for pilgrims who began their journey in Oviedo. The Holy Chamber is a pre-Romanesque building from the 9th century, built as a palace chapel by Alfonso II the Chaste.

In addition to the crosses, it houses other significant relics such as the Holy Ark and the Holy Shroud. Access to this underground chapel is a must-see during your visit to the cathedral, offering a unique spiritual and cultural experience.

 

Connection with the Primitivo Way of Santiago

The Primitivo Way starts at the Cathedral of San Salvador in Oviedo, following the route that King Alfonso II used to visit the recently discovered tomb of the Apostle Santiago. Unlike the French Way, this option is physically more demanding, but offers stunning landscapes and a less crowded atmosphere.

If you are looking for an authentic experience and want to connect with the original history of the Way, this is a great choice. The Primitivo Way spans approximately 325 kilometres, divided into several stages. It is an ideal alternative for those who want a quieter experience in touch with nature.

 

Elements you can’t miss during your visit

In addition to its historical importance, the cathedral houses details that deserve attention. The Baroque chapels, such as the one dedicated to Our Lady of the Chaste King, are prime examples of Baroque art. The Gothic sculptures in the cloister and the main altarpiece are essential.

The Holy Shroud of Oviedo, preserved in the Holy Chamber, is a relic of great religious significance. Every element within the temple has a story to tell, making the visit a valuable cultural and spiritual experience.

 

The role of the Cathedral in Oviedo’s culture

The Cathedral of San Salvador has become a prominent landmark in the life of the city of Oviedo. It serves as a venue for important religious celebrations and is a place where tourists and locals coexist seamlessly.

The square surrounding it serves as a meeting point, with bars and cafes around, perfect for taking a break before continuing to explore the city.

Oviedo, with its calm and welcoming atmosphere, is a perfect place to start a pilgrimage or discover its rich heritage. The cathedral has been a significant source of inspiration for artists and writers.

Its history intertwines with the life of the city, making it a cultural and religious emblem of Asturias. Its spiritual and social importance makes it an essential destination for any visitor.

 

Plan your visit with useful information

If you decide to visit the Cathedral of San Salvador, there are a few things you should consider. The opening hours vary depending on the season, so it’s advisable to check in advance. However, as a general guide, we can tell you that the opening hours are:

  • From 10 to 13 and from 16 to 18, Monday to Friday.
  • From 16 to 17 on Saturdays.

Access to the Holy Chamber is included in the general guided tours, so keep that in mind when organising your visit. Also, if you plan to start the Primitivo Way, here you can obtain your pilgrim credential, an essential document for those wishing to complete the route.

Remember that tourist visits are not allowed on Sundays, so it’s important to schedule your visit on weekdays to fully enjoy the tour.